Pontevedra

We are now in the lovely city of Pontevedra.   This was the place where had planned a rest day, which we have been enjoying, before heading on to the Camino Espiritual.  Plans have changed though, as the constant wet weather has made that option very unappealing, and likely to be somewhat difficult, with muddy conditions along the way, and maybe even flooded areas. Instead our plans are to head up along the Central Route, the way we have been following since leaving Porto.

Iglesia de la Virgen del Camino  (I managed to have a sing here in the afternoon).  We went to the pilgrim mass here.

How have the last few days been you may be wondering?  As I write, I realise that I haven't posted for a number of days, so it is now time to fill you in. To avoid the arduous slippery climb on leaving Ponte de Lima we caught a bus, then a taxi, to Tui.  This is a wonderful old town, built on a hill, with the ancient Tui Cathedral dominating the sky line. The exit from the town is past the old Carmelite convent,  where the nuns still make, and sell, special almond biscuits, then down very steep steps towards the river.  Having passed the Carmelites, the next monastery to pass was that of Santo Domingo.  At the back of this massive edice there was a beautiful lookout over the River Louro, and across to Portugal, though the weather was such that any view of Portugal was impossible due to the thick mist.  Indeed, the river below was only just visible.

Tui Cathedral.  An ancient, imposing, and sombre building

Through the tunnel, after passing the Carmelite convent. 

And then continuing down the steps.

Overlooking the River Louro

Julie caught the bus, with fellow pilgrim Sharn, to the next stop, and I walked on alone.  The path was fairly easy, with just a few hills.  We had heard that there was flooding on the path and detours were in place, with considerable road walking.   Both Julie and Sharn were reluctant to walk on roads, and I must admit  I was a little concerned as I had no desire to walk on a main road.  However, the good news was that the detour, though on a road, was on a very quiet one, and the day turned out to be very special  indeed.  The police were out making sure that pilgrims (and there were many) took the detour,  not the path they had closed for safety, though this was not the reason for it being special!

A few kilometres out of Tui, on the bit of path I had walked in January.

Why was this a special day?  Well last time I was here I had walked around 6kms of this stage when I met Javier who took it upon himself to help me as I was suffering from damaged ligaments. He drove me in his van to O Porriño, stopping along the way to show me what I was missing, then he took me to various hotels until we found one open that had a room available. Arriving at the spot where I met Javier in January, I was disappointed that neither he nor his white van were there, but I carried on.   Having walked along the "poldra" - a sort of rock bridge at the side of the stream, which Javier had taken great pride in showing me earlier in the year, I crested a rise, and to my delight I saw a white van, but better still, Javier was sitting in a bus stop talking to a group of pilgrims.   There were a couple of Adelaidians in the group and Javier was busy telling them about the Australian who had come through in January, was involved with the Australian amigos group, and who had sung for him in the church.  They were busy telling him that it might be the woman behind them when I appeared, and a laughter filled reunion ensued.

The poldra, a sort of bridge allowing people to move from village to village in days gone by.  A very important part of Galician cultural heritage. 

Just one group of pilgrims on that day.

Javier and I reunited. 

The next day, having spent time with Javier at the bar in the evening, Julie and I set off for Redondela, a town that is crossed by 2 train viaducts.  We were delighted at our coffee stop in the village of Mos, to be greeted by Javier again.  He was out walking to see as many pilgrims as possible.   He and I went to the church where I sang for him again.  I seem to have the same affect on him each time I sing for him, he gets overcome, and this time I had to leave him there to recover!  I am reasonably confident that it is not the bad quality of my voice that gets such a reaction, at least I hope not!  Again another delightful day, even though fairly long with a couple of moderate hills as well.  Javier made these 2 days, not only for me, but all those he met.  He is such a kind, gentle, and caring soul.

Julie, Janet, and Javier 

The church at Mos, where I sang for Javier 

The way passed through several villages, but was mostly "in nature"

Just one of the viaducts passing through the centre of Redondela, our stop for the night.

Julie, fellow Aussie (ACT) Sharn, and Janet, waiting for the restaurant to open in Redondela.

The next stage was long, and had 2 hills for us to negotiate, but the bonus was that it was mostly fine, after a gently wet start, and indeed, for a couple of hours we even had intermittent sunshine later in the afternoon.  This stage passes through an ancient village, though on reflection, compared to Australia, they are pretty much all ancient!  It crosses a beautiful mediaeval bridge into the village of Ponte Sampaio, before heading up the final climb and into the city of Pontevedra. Again much of the path was "in nature", and with the climbs we had some fine views. We opted to take the river path for the final few kilometres, lovely to begin with, but VERY muddy by the final kilometre or so.  However it was lovely walking by the river, listening to it bubble along, so clear you could see the bottom of the river bed - a novel experience for us!

Leaving Redondela in the early morning (8.50am) dawn.

About to cross the medieval bridge to Ponte Sampaio

Ponte Sampaio

A little Iglesia, but I managed to get a sing in it.  It has been surprising how many churches have been open.

Moss and lichen cover everything 

The final stretch into Pontevedra

Iglesia de la Virgen del Camino

Inside the Iglesia de la Virgen del Camino