Coimbra

Walking from Condeixa-a-Nova was generally more of the same; vines, olives, limestone, and heat.  I managed to find my way across to the path, having detoured 2km off it to find a bed, without having to retrace my steps at all.  Pleasing indeed.  The striking thing though is that leaving town, for just a few kilometres, there was lush green grass in places, and even market gardens and fruit trees.  Closer to Coimbra, villages started to run into each other - a sort of urban sprawl, but at least the buildings gave some shade.

Leaving Condeixa-a-Nova 

Even a waterfall!

I chose to stay in the albergue on the way into town because of the extra time I had, and took the opportunity to visit the convent that the albergue was in.  This is a very important site, now an historical monument, but formally run by the Poor Clare's.  It is this building that holds the tomb of Queen Isabella, now Saint Isabella,  though originally the convent was situated nearer the river.  Inundation was cause for concern, and a new convent was built higher up the hill where no such risks were present.  The Chapel in the convent was a "wow", extremely ornate, art works everywhere,  and a lot of carved wood covered in gold.

Igreja da Rainha Santa Isabel do Mosteiro de Santa Clara-a-Nova

The kilometre stroll down the hill, across the river, and to my hotel for the night was a doddle.  It was so cool that there was a haze over everything, making taking photos difficult.   Though it was cool, it was short-lived,  with the heat cranking up by mid morning.   Being too early to check in I left my pack and set off exploring - up the hill.

looking across to the university buildings on top of the hill

and later in the day

Coimbra is a university town, and this week marks the start of the academic year (I think).  Senior University students are dressed in their uniform - black skirt, just above the knee (trousers for the fellas), white shirts, black tie, black court shoes and a black floor length cape.  Graduates add a black hat to that.  

The university is the oldest in Portugal, having been transferred to Coimbra from Lisbon in 1308.  The old university buildings are on top of the hill, from which other buildings spill downwards towards the river.  The town streets are extremely narrow, and many are not roads, but flights of stairs. Touching both sides of one street, I had to bend my elbows, it was so narrow!

Vehicles just fit!

There are a number of historic buildings that form part of the UNESCO world heritage site in Coimbra.  The most famous of these is the 18th Century Biblioteca Joanina - the library named after King John, who handed over the Royal Palace to the university.   Ancient texts in many languages line the shelves, but sadly I can't show you what is called the "noble floor" as no photos were allowed.  I have been unable to find a postcard either to plagiarise a photo! To protect the books from insects that might wish to digest the pages there are 2 colonies of bats that permanently live in the library.  In turn, to protect the astonishingly beautiful tables throughout this floor, special leather sheets are used to cover the tables each night.

Just some of the books in the Biblioteca Joanina - in an area I could photograph!

Historic buildings abound in this area.  The former Royal Palace, the tower, and St Michael's Chapel, which once belonged to the Royal Palace.   Then there are the various museums, including the science museum which holds a collection of historical scientific instruments, the university being famed for its scientific discoveries.  There is a Botanical Gardens, many churches, and not one, but two Cathedrals - the New Cathedral, and the Old.

The Royal Palace exterior - still used by the university for official ceremonies.

The grand hall in the Royal Palace 

The Clock Tower in the corner of the Royal Palace 

The organ in St Michael's Chapel  - played every Sunday apparently 

Not visible, but St Michael's Chapel has leather covered pews for the students comfort!

The glasshouse in the Botanical Gardens

In the cloisters of the old Cathedral

Roman ruins too.

This has been a restful couple of days, fortunately, but tomorrow I start the hard work with around 25 kilometres to go, and with a forecast over the next few days around 35° - 36° forecast.  This will mean as early starts as practicable.